Story Time

“We wander for distraction, we travel for fulfillment.” -Hilaire Belloc    

     Well, my time in Bahia finally came to a close and I said my goodbyes to the life I had established in that town.  One last meal at my favorite empanada stand, one last swim in the ocean, and one last night drinking beer around the table chatting about whatever the wind blew our way.  Yeah, the last month had been good to me, but as with everything, it had to end.  The girls came out to Bahia for my final two nights and it was good to see their smiling faces and catch up on the last month of our lives.
     I was able to persuade them to make our next stop Puerto Lopez, my second favorite town on the coast.  Here we are, staying in the same hostel I was in a little over a month ago, and life is just as sweet.  Of all the new things I’ve experienced on this trip, the new people I’ve met, the places I’ve been, I don’t think I will find much that I enjoy as much as sitting and watching the sun stain the sky pink while it sinks into the ocean.
     I don’t think we have the next step of this journey planned yet, or maybe the girls have that figured out already, I don’t know.  What I do know is that we have ten days to get ourselves out of Ecuador and into Peru (our visa expires March 17th).
     Temporarily stationary, I find my mind wandering back on the last three months of my life.  The lessons I could only learn from this trip, and the self discovery you go through without even intending on it.  I was talking to my mom a few weeks back, when I was still volunteering at the hostel, and I told her that the fulfillment one gets from traveling is broken down into three parts: 5% self discovery, 15% new culture, and 80% the people you meet.  As a peer helper in high school we were taught to appreciate the saying “How can you judge someone if you haven’t heard their story?”  So true I have found those words.  Everyone has a story, not everyone’s story sticks with you as time passes.
     I look back at my story, making mental cliff notes for the next person who asks, and I have to say it’s pretty much perfect.  Not in the arrogant way of my whole life has been cars and money and whatever I want I get, not in the way that my story is better than yours, not even in the way of when I tell my story to people they will envy it, but in the way that whatever it was that lead up to this point in my life, it was plenty good enough for me to still have a smile on my face.  Perfect.  If I’m the main character then I have had one hell of a supporting cast up to this point.  It’s had ups and downs, twists and turns, just like anything you would read by Dickens, Twain, or Shakespeare.  How can anything be so bad if you still slap that smile on your face.  I have no idea what the future will hold, for any of us, I’ll just try and enjoy the ride.  Sooner or later the sun sets on everything only to rise again.  Sooner or later the plot will thicken.

No where to go and all day to get there

"Mind on a permanent vacation.  The ocean is my only medication.  Wishin' my condition aint never gonna go away." -Jimmy Buffet


     I’ve covered a lot of ground to get where I am now, which is the lazy beach town of Puerto Lopez.  The drive out here was about as diverse a scene as Ecuador can throw your way.  From Baños, I went across the Andes and down into the tropical plains (if there is such a thing) near Guayaquil.  Arriving in Guayaquil I saw my first highway since I left the states.  Guayaquil, from what I saw, most closely resembles Los Angeles.  Not the skyline but the areas surrounding downtown.  I changed buses there and kept heading west.  Another three hours and I had to change buses again.  This time in the dusty town of Santa Elena.  Who knew that Ecuador had a desert.  Wind blew tumbleweed across the road and cacti were the only other vegetation.  It definitely looked liked it belonged along the US’s famous Route 66.  Another hour and I was in what I had hoped would be my home for the next month, Montañita.
     Montañita is a tourist hotspot that is unlike any other town in Ecuador.  Located right on the beach, the town is filled with hotels, hostels, bars, surf shops, dreadlocks and 20-somethings.  Getting off the bus I was smacked right in the face by the most humid air I have ever experienced.  Reggae music blasts from every which way while the air is occupied with the scent of fruit from juice stands, sunscreen, and burning marijuana.  It is high season in Ecuador (meaning a lot of tourists, nothing related to the marijuana reference) so prices are a little higher than usual.  I had trouble finding a hostel and, after being shot down by about seven, I opted for a hotel.  I got a single room with a shower that did not work for $30.
     At night the streets are full of young adults of all nationalities.  So far on my travels I have encountered a lot of Australians.  Not in Montañita though.  It was like the Olympic games of tourism.  Every corner of the globe was represented.  I met people from all over Europe, North America, a few from Africa, but the vast majority were Argentinean.  A quick side note: Colombian women have officially been dethroned.  The girls of Argentina take the cake.
     I went around to various hostels to see if they took volunteers, which none did.  This left me very little choice but to hit the road and continue north, which may have been a blessing in disguise because I don’t think I could have handled staying in the craziness of Montañita for the long term.  A 1-2 hour bus ride and I arrived at Puerto Lopez.  I found a hostel/hotel that only had one room left. A single with a fully operational shower and a balcony with views of the ocean for only $8.  I will use this as my base camp for the next few days as I try and find a volunteer possibility that will help save money, but $8 a night isn’t a bad alternative.
     Puerto Lopez is located on the edge of Machalilla National Park, which I am hoping supplies me with a few nice excursions into the wilderness.  Each morning dozens of fisherman compete with a few pelicans for the catch of the day.  I will continue to look for a month long volunteer possibility... tomorrow.  For now I’m just gonna relax in a hammock, eat a mango, and watch the sun disappear into the ocean.

Occupy Ecuador

" But what a feeling, chasing the sun. Living my life like a shot from a gun. Laughing a little bit more with every mile." -Jason Aldean
   
     25 hours of travel and we finally arrived in Quito with time to spare.  If you hate conveniency then you will love this next part.  There are two roads that lead to Ecuador from Bogota, Colombia.  The more direct route is full of guerrilla activity though.  I don't mean the King Kong type either. I mean the drug cartel, machine gun carrying kind.  Needless to say, we opted for the long route.  On our way out of Colombia there would be stretches of highway with military personnel wandering the side.  Everyone we passed gave us a thumbs-up.  I have no idea what that meant but I'm sure a man with an automatic rifle giving you a thumbs down doesn't end well.  We had no trouble crossing the border and got approved for a VISA through March 17th.

     So far Ecuador differs from Colombia in a few ways.  Our bus was stopped two or three times and "policia" boarded.  The first time they ordered all the men off the bus and I guess searched it for something.  The second time they boarded they asked me to show them my passport.  They just don't like dudes in this country I guess.  Ecuador uses US currency, which makes it easy to tell how cheap something really is.  Tonight we are going for pizza and a soda for $1.75.  It costs a quarter to ride the trolley.  People here are also very nice and quick to help out, like in Colombia.  Ecuador does seem to have a lot more poverty than we saw in Colombia.  It makes you think about our "problems" back home and how minuscule they really are.

     A side note: I haven't been able to work this into my blog yet but they are two semi-important points I want to add.  Most of the water from the tap is undrinkable.  You don't realize how much you take that for granted until it's unavailable.  I caved and use tap water when brushing my teeth but I do not ingest it in large amounts.  Time will tell if this is a good idea.  The other thing is that the plumbing in South America is about as impressive as me in the weight room.  When doing your business, you are supposed to dispose of toilet paper in the trash rather than the toilet bowl.  I am a creature of habit however and made the mistake of flushing toilet paper. The end result was not good.

     Quito itself is a wonderful city.  It is the second highest capital city in the world (9,200 feet).  It is divided into three parts.  New Town is to the north.  Most bars and hostels are here in a district called "El Mariscal" which is supposed to be very dangerous after 9pm.  We chose to avoid that all together and stay in Old Town.  A wise choice on our part, as Old Town is amazing.  It has a very European feel to it (cobble stone streets, similar architecture, and a massive church in the center).  Our hostel is massive and has a 5th floor terrace that overlooks the city.

     Tomorrow we are back on the road, to Riobamba this time.  I have no idea what that city is like but at least it is fun to say.  From there we will head to a farm just east of Puyo.  The farm is run by a Shaman and his family.  It will no doubt be an interesting experience.  I don't think we will have internet access so on weekends we may have to go into town and find an internet cafe.  I hope this time apart from technology won't discourage you from following the blog.  I promise to update as much as possible.  Also, don't forget to check the girls blog at http://www.volar2012.blogspot.com/.  I hope everyone has a wonderful and safe holiday season!

   

The wheels on the bus

     “A wise traveler never despises his own country.” -William Hazlitt

     We have finally arrived in Salento.  What was supposed to be a routine, seven hour bus ride from Bogota to Armenia turned into a 22 hour bus ride from hell.  Instead of freeways, Colombia opted for two lane winding roads.  Splash in a little rain and some already moist soil and you have yourself the perfect recipe for a mudslide.  That is exactly what mother nature served us last night.  Our bus stood idle for most of the drive, stuck in traffic with other buses and trucks.  We finally arrived in Armenia around 6 this morning.  Caught a smaller bus that took us to our hostel in Salento.

     Salento has been a nice change of pace.  This small town offers a colonial feel and fantastic scenery.  The population is only around 7,000 and the town center is a must see.  Lined with restaurants, bars, shops, and a large church on the south end, it is easy to spend a lot of your time (and money) on this cultural experience.  The locals are friendly and welcoming to outsiders.

     After arriving by bus, we were taxied to our hostel by a jeep.  Sitting in the back while it putts along bumpy, dirt roads, you may start humming the theme song to “Indiana Jones” in your head.  We arrived at our hostel (La Serrana) in time for breakfast.  After, we went on a hike and tour of a local coffee plantation with a few of the residents.  On our way into town for lunch we got caught in a torrential downpour.  The cheap jacket I bought at Target is not waterproof.  We live and we learn.

     Our stay here will be short.  We are catching a late night bus tomorrow to Pasto.  The drive is supposed to take 12-14 hours so I expect it to last a few days.  The plan is to stop in Pasto for the night then continue at day break and make our way across the Ecuadorian border.  We have to be in Riobamba on the 21st to start work on a farm owned by a Shaman and his family.  We hope to work there for about a month.  I do not know what internet access will be like but I will update this as much as possible.

Setting the record straight

"We want to go forward, but which way are we facing?" -John Lennon

     I think the native American's had a saying that went something like "never judge a man until you have spent a moon in his moccasins".  I won't try and defend the dark and corrupt past that Colombia has suffered in recent years, but as far as I'm concerned the people of Colombia are some of the nicest on Earth.  Quick to help out and so incredibly laid back.

     Medellin itself is a fantastic city.  Nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains, it covers nearly 445 square miles and is the second largest city in Colombia with 2.3 million residents.  Our hostel (The Tiger Paw) is absolutely amazing!  If you travel to Medellin, which I highly recommend, stay at this hostel.  9-10 pm every night is happy our (2 for 1 drinks).  The people you meet at hostels make the experience that much richer.  Two Australian guys I am rooming with are on the first leg of what will turn into an incredibly long bicycle trek from Bogota, Colombia to Rio De Janeiro, Brazil by way of travelling southwest.  They are writing a book about the trip which will be called "Bicycle Diaries".  A play off the book and film called "Motorcycle Diaries".

     We spent the first two nights going to various clubs, which usually have a cover charge but then offer free drinks inside (girls are free).  I think it is necessary to devote at least an entire paragraph to the women of Colombia.  They are simply beautiful.  They have mastered the art of dressing sexy but not slutty.  And when they dance.... ay dios mio!  The dancing in clubs is not as barbaric as in the US but just as seductive.  It's like a mix of salsa and hip hop.  Obviously I can't keep up.

     Drugs, mostly cocaine, are easily accessible.  The seller on our street is Carlos.  He is relentless with his sales pitch too.  Didn't take no for an answer until I told him I had no money.  Even after that though he stuck around and had a friendly conversation.  Colombian's are just that way.  There are certain areas of Medellin, like most cities, that are a poverty stricken.  Walking to the metro yesterday I saw a child, couldn't have been older than 5, sleeping in the park with a jar out for donations.  It's things like this that make you truly thankful for everything you have in life.  So far I have had no problems with police, although on the way to the metro we passed a few guards with shotguns.

     I apologize for the length of this blog post.  So much has happened in the last 48 hours and I can only share so much.  We leave Medellin tomorrow, going further into this brand new world.  Bogota will be our next stop, but most everything after this is still up in the air.  The feeling of not knowing what is next is just unreal.  This is surely the way life is supposed to be lived!