The Man of Ecuador

"I cried because I had no shoes, until I saw a child who had no feet." -Chinese proverb



I could tell at first glance he’d lived a tougher life than me
Sitting out on the curb on the side of some street
His eyes were worn but not by pain
More like an old painting that fades with age

His clothes were torn and stained with dirt
And his ribs were visible through the holes in his shirt
He looked at me not with envy or hate
But a look that stuck with me even after I walked away

Is that the emptiness of a life without hope?
How long had his life been on this downward slope?
Had he once had dreams that had since been forgotten?
Why is my life so privileged and his so rotten?

Maybe he knew love but lost it along the way
Or maybe a tragedy had lead his soul astray
How can he still manage a smile when all that he has
Is the breath in his lungs and the clothes on his back

We complain about problems that now seem so distant
We ask for help and get upset when others show resistance
But he asked for no charity, no free hand out of cash
He just shot me a glance as I walked on past

I guess loneliness by choice doesn’t taste so sour
It claims no victim and has no “darkest hour”
Most of what I have I was born into
The simplicity of his life is something I never knew

He has no wants, only needs
We are both human, we both bleed
But sir, how come the sight of your dirty and cracked feet
Doesn’t make you sad like it does me?

Occupy Ecuador

" But what a feeling, chasing the sun. Living my life like a shot from a gun. Laughing a little bit more with every mile." -Jason Aldean
   
     25 hours of travel and we finally arrived in Quito with time to spare.  If you hate conveniency then you will love this next part.  There are two roads that lead to Ecuador from Bogota, Colombia.  The more direct route is full of guerrilla activity though.  I don't mean the King Kong type either. I mean the drug cartel, machine gun carrying kind.  Needless to say, we opted for the long route.  On our way out of Colombia there would be stretches of highway with military personnel wandering the side.  Everyone we passed gave us a thumbs-up.  I have no idea what that meant but I'm sure a man with an automatic rifle giving you a thumbs down doesn't end well.  We had no trouble crossing the border and got approved for a VISA through March 17th.

     So far Ecuador differs from Colombia in a few ways.  Our bus was stopped two or three times and "policia" boarded.  The first time they ordered all the men off the bus and I guess searched it for something.  The second time they boarded they asked me to show them my passport.  They just don't like dudes in this country I guess.  Ecuador uses US currency, which makes it easy to tell how cheap something really is.  Tonight we are going for pizza and a soda for $1.75.  It costs a quarter to ride the trolley.  People here are also very nice and quick to help out, like in Colombia.  Ecuador does seem to have a lot more poverty than we saw in Colombia.  It makes you think about our "problems" back home and how minuscule they really are.

     A side note: I haven't been able to work this into my blog yet but they are two semi-important points I want to add.  Most of the water from the tap is undrinkable.  You don't realize how much you take that for granted until it's unavailable.  I caved and use tap water when brushing my teeth but I do not ingest it in large amounts.  Time will tell if this is a good idea.  The other thing is that the plumbing in South America is about as impressive as me in the weight room.  When doing your business, you are supposed to dispose of toilet paper in the trash rather than the toilet bowl.  I am a creature of habit however and made the mistake of flushing toilet paper. The end result was not good.

     Quito itself is a wonderful city.  It is the second highest capital city in the world (9,200 feet).  It is divided into three parts.  New Town is to the north.  Most bars and hostels are here in a district called "El Mariscal" which is supposed to be very dangerous after 9pm.  We chose to avoid that all together and stay in Old Town.  A wise choice on our part, as Old Town is amazing.  It has a very European feel to it (cobble stone streets, similar architecture, and a massive church in the center).  Our hostel is massive and has a 5th floor terrace that overlooks the city.

     Tomorrow we are back on the road, to Riobamba this time.  I have no idea what that city is like but at least it is fun to say.  From there we will head to a farm just east of Puyo.  The farm is run by a Shaman and his family.  It will no doubt be an interesting experience.  I don't think we will have internet access so on weekends we may have to go into town and find an internet cafe.  I hope this time apart from technology won't discourage you from following the blog.  I promise to update as much as possible.  Also, don't forget to check the girls blog at http://www.volar2012.blogspot.com/.  I hope everyone has a wonderful and safe holiday season!

   

The wheels on the bus

     “A wise traveler never despises his own country.” -William Hazlitt

     We have finally arrived in Salento.  What was supposed to be a routine, seven hour bus ride from Bogota to Armenia turned into a 22 hour bus ride from hell.  Instead of freeways, Colombia opted for two lane winding roads.  Splash in a little rain and some already moist soil and you have yourself the perfect recipe for a mudslide.  That is exactly what mother nature served us last night.  Our bus stood idle for most of the drive, stuck in traffic with other buses and trucks.  We finally arrived in Armenia around 6 this morning.  Caught a smaller bus that took us to our hostel in Salento.

     Salento has been a nice change of pace.  This small town offers a colonial feel and fantastic scenery.  The population is only around 7,000 and the town center is a must see.  Lined with restaurants, bars, shops, and a large church on the south end, it is easy to spend a lot of your time (and money) on this cultural experience.  The locals are friendly and welcoming to outsiders.

     After arriving by bus, we were taxied to our hostel by a jeep.  Sitting in the back while it putts along bumpy, dirt roads, you may start humming the theme song to “Indiana Jones” in your head.  We arrived at our hostel (La Serrana) in time for breakfast.  After, we went on a hike and tour of a local coffee plantation with a few of the residents.  On our way into town for lunch we got caught in a torrential downpour.  The cheap jacket I bought at Target is not waterproof.  We live and we learn.

     Our stay here will be short.  We are catching a late night bus tomorrow to Pasto.  The drive is supposed to take 12-14 hours so I expect it to last a few days.  The plan is to stop in Pasto for the night then continue at day break and make our way across the Ecuadorian border.  We have to be in Riobamba on the 21st to start work on a farm owned by a Shaman and his family.  We hope to work there for about a month.  I do not know what internet access will be like but I will update this as much as possible.

Bogota

"One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple." -Jack Kerouac


     Sitting in a penthouse apartment over looking downtown Bogota I realize this isn't exactly "roughing it".  We lucked out with our stay in Bogota.  My older brother has a friend, Adam, that has been living in Bogota for the past four months, and he very graciously let us stay with him.  He had pizza ordered by the time we got here, took us to a few of his favorite eateries, let the girls sleep in his bed, made us dinner one night, and basically went above and beyond to make our stay the best it could be.

     Despite being 274 miles apart, it took us nearly 12 hours by bus to get from Medellin to Bogota.  There are no highways here.  Our bus weaved up a winding two lane road, surrounded by the most beautiful landscapes you can imagine, ignoring double yellow lines and passing trucks and other buses until at long last we arrived in Bogota.

     Bogota is Colombia's capital.  Home to almost 9 million people, it is the third highest capital city in South America (8,612 feet) behind La Paz and Quito.  This city was not made for someone 6 feet tall or above.  I have hit my head on a few over hanging signs, the roof of the taxi,  and struggled to squeeze in to some of the tables at cafe's.  I also seem to draw a lot of attention when we walk down the street, but that's more likely because I am a gringo.


     I'm would venture a guess that Colombia does not have 'smog tests' for vehicles.  We have been blasted with black billowing exhaust from countless buses and trucks.  Near the main roads the air is polluted which, mixed with the altitude, makes breathing a bit difficult.  Stepping into the less crowded areas the air clears up quickly.  It is surprising that the sky still manages to be a deep blue when the clouds part, rather than the ugly brown that stains the sky above Los Angeles.  


     The drivers in Colombia are crazy.  I don't mean that every so often one will dodge between trucks and cabs, almost hitting one.  Everyone is all over the road but we are yet to see an accident.  It is a controlled chaos on the roads.  I find that it is much less stressful not to pay attention to the driver and what is happening in front of you.


     Police presence is everywhere, but I think it is more for intimidation than anything else.  There are a few dodgy areas that Adam told us not to venture to at night.  He also advised to crack a window every time we enter a cab because on occasion cab drivers pump a gas through the vents that causes you to pass out.  Once unconscious they rob you and dump you on the road.  I have also heard a few horror stories about bus rides but I'll wait until we get to Ecuador before I share those... Don't want to jinx it.


     We leave Bogota on Friday and head west to the small town of Salento.  I find that I have become a voluntary PR rep for Colombia.  Is there crime? Sure, but what major city is 100% safe.  The people of Colombia are always so quick to help out.  They smile at me as I struggle to explain something in Spanish and then help me out with a quick game of charades.  That's pretty much all I have to share at this point.  The next step is, once again, relatively unknown.  If I do not have internet access then it may be a while until my next post so, just in case, HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Setting the record straight

"We want to go forward, but which way are we facing?" -John Lennon

     I think the native American's had a saying that went something like "never judge a man until you have spent a moon in his moccasins".  I won't try and defend the dark and corrupt past that Colombia has suffered in recent years, but as far as I'm concerned the people of Colombia are some of the nicest on Earth.  Quick to help out and so incredibly laid back.

     Medellin itself is a fantastic city.  Nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains, it covers nearly 445 square miles and is the second largest city in Colombia with 2.3 million residents.  Our hostel (The Tiger Paw) is absolutely amazing!  If you travel to Medellin, which I highly recommend, stay at this hostel.  9-10 pm every night is happy our (2 for 1 drinks).  The people you meet at hostels make the experience that much richer.  Two Australian guys I am rooming with are on the first leg of what will turn into an incredibly long bicycle trek from Bogota, Colombia to Rio De Janeiro, Brazil by way of travelling southwest.  They are writing a book about the trip which will be called "Bicycle Diaries".  A play off the book and film called "Motorcycle Diaries".

     We spent the first two nights going to various clubs, which usually have a cover charge but then offer free drinks inside (girls are free).  I think it is necessary to devote at least an entire paragraph to the women of Colombia.  They are simply beautiful.  They have mastered the art of dressing sexy but not slutty.  And when they dance.... ay dios mio!  The dancing in clubs is not as barbaric as in the US but just as seductive.  It's like a mix of salsa and hip hop.  Obviously I can't keep up.

     Drugs, mostly cocaine, are easily accessible.  The seller on our street is Carlos.  He is relentless with his sales pitch too.  Didn't take no for an answer until I told him I had no money.  Even after that though he stuck around and had a friendly conversation.  Colombian's are just that way.  There are certain areas of Medellin, like most cities, that are a poverty stricken.  Walking to the metro yesterday I saw a child, couldn't have been older than 5, sleeping in the park with a jar out for donations.  It's things like this that make you truly thankful for everything you have in life.  So far I have had no problems with police, although on the way to the metro we passed a few guards with shotguns.

     I apologize for the length of this blog post.  So much has happened in the last 48 hours and I can only share so much.  We leave Medellin tomorrow, going further into this brand new world.  Bogota will be our next stop, but most everything after this is still up in the air.  The feeling of not knowing what is next is just unreal.  This is surely the way life is supposed to be lived!

Flew south for the winter

“Why must the thrill of flying be preceded by the fear of falling?” -unknown

    Let me preface this by saying that this blog post was written in the terminal at LAX but the lack of internet access means that by the time I finally post this I will be in Colombia.    Sitting here with Bob Seger’s “Against the Wind” blasting through my headphones I have no trouble finding the correlation.  I am still in the states, for the next hour or so anyways.  Nerves? Not as bad as I would have thought.  The past four days have been so mentally and financially draining that I have very little energy to spare on nerves.  If you hadn’t heard, I had a bit of a mix up with my passport.  The passport I was issued was a passport card.  To travel overseas you need a passport book.  I caught this unfortunate error (on my behalf) roughly 30 hours before the original flight was set to depart.  I had to cancel my flight, though I still went to the airport to see the girls off.

    I was able to book another flight to Colombia a few days later (for $740).  Most of Monday was spent in line at the federal building in Los Angeles, but well worth it since I was approved for a rush passport ($195).  Having no ride back to the federal building the next day to pick it up I became very familiar with the bus system in LA.  Long story short, I arrived back at my aunt’s house Tuesday afternoon with my passport in hand.  Double and triple checked everything today (Wednesday) and had a brief conversation with the girls.  They also have a blog set up which I highly recommend you checkout at http://www.volar2012.blogspot.com/


    Nothing else to report really.  I sit here perched on the cusp of… something. Whether it be the adventure of a lifetime or a complete disaster, time will tell.  I am fairly certain that no matter what happens in these next few months, my life will be forever changed.  Everything and yet nothing so far has prepared me for what comes next. Time to take flight!  Here. We. Go.

This blog...

     This is my first blog so bear with me.  Let me just briefly explain what is going on here.  Myself and two of my friends (Jackie Blumenthal and Angelica Barrera) will be leaving December 4th to embark on a backpacking trip though out South America.  I will do my best to keep you up-to-date on what we are doing but I'm not sure how often I will have internet.

     

     The basics of the blog are at the TABS at the top of the screen (Home, About Me, Pictures, The Things I Carry, Here and There, Random Musings).  Most of them are self explanatory but just in case I will fill you in on each.  "Home" is the page you are on. Got it? Good.  "About Me" is a brief bio of me.  "Pictures" will be a page that I post the most exciting pictures that I take on my cheap 5 megapixel camera.... If I can figure out how to post them.  "The Things I Carry" is a list of everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, that I am taking with me. The purpose of that is to try and show you why I am wearing the same clothes in just about every picture.  "Here and There" is a place I will be writing what I miss the most about the USofA and what I would be doing if I were there and comparing it to what I am doing in South America.  "Random Musings" is basically if I have a thought that I absolutely have to share with you all, but it doesn't fit in any of the other categories.  Warning: When I say random I mean very very random.  You don't know how weird I am...

Apart from all that I will trying to do this trip in the cheapest manner possible.  I have already spent around $300 on immunizations and malaria tablets and close to the same amount on gear.  We leave at 10:55pm from LAX on the 4th, stop in Florida, then after a 4 hour lay-over we are off to Colombia.  I hope this blog is intriguing enough that you follow along!

PS If anyone knows how to get music to play on the blog I would love to know you're secret.